Of the five high-volume concepts that chef and humanitarian José Andrés has recently opened in Chicago, this cow palace provides the most assured experience, whether you’re hungry for a craftily updated steakhouse meal or a tour of the modernist Spanish dishes he has perfected from his home bases in Los Angeles and Washington, D.C. You can spend a fortune here on imported beef, or you can order a fantastic secreto cut of Ibérico pork and keep the prices down. But really, you want to explore the appetizers. Highlights include Andrés’s famous liquid olives and a plate of wild mushrooms with a sunny-side-up egg rendered as a lacy miracle of flyaway crisp edges. There’s a deep wine list, as well, and a smart team to help you find a big bang for medium bucks. 120 N. Wacker Dr.